So it's come to this: we no longer even trust the government to keep our milk safe. At least that's the attitude of raw-milk enthusiasts, who are in open rebellion over what they see as a wrongheaded (and possibly sinister) homogenization policy from the Food and Drug Administration. Two Los Angeles–area raids may have been the Lexington and Concord of the raw-milk revolution. But even without the drama, raw milk is gaining a foothold as must-have contraband, the medical marijuana of the culinary world.